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Oct 17 - Feb 16

MUDE, Rua Augusta 24, Lisbon, , 1100-053, Portugal
  • MUDE 2013 © Fernando Guerra

  • MUDE 2013 © Fernando Guerra

  • MUDE 2013 © Fernando Guerra


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Felipe Oliveira Baptista retrospective at MUDE, Lisbon

Felipe Oliveira Baptista, the famous Portuguese designer, celebrates his ten years in fashion with a retrospective at the Fashion and Design Museum of Lisbon (MUDE) that runs through February 16, 2014. Baptista established his own label back in 2003, after winning the Grand Prix at the Hyères International Festival of Fashion and Photography in 2002, and in 2005 he started showing haute-couture during Haute Couture Paris fashion week. During his career he has worked for a variety of high fashion brands, among them Max Mara and Cerruti, and has collaborated with Nike and Uniqlo. In 2010 Baptista became the creative director of Lacoste, reinventing the brand’s sporty chic legacy with great success. With his avant -gard aesthetics and his architectural volumes Baptista has captivated fashion enthusiasts worldwide and has become a reference point for an entire generation of emerging designers.

The exhibition showcases more than 80 outfits of the designer’s collections for his own label and is organized as an installation, divided in twelve parts. The scenography is designed by Alex de Betak, who is also the responsible of the set designs for the Lacoste’s shows, and it features linear and geometrical constructions, with mirrors intersecting the gallery walls in different angles and directions, creating a dramatic kaleidoscope effect. The exhibition, far from having a chronological structure, opts for offering a deep insight into Baptista’s craftsmanship and establishes aesthetic connections between his different collections. It is organized in five main themes that work like guiding threads, including “variable geometries”, “new uniforms and workwear”, “protection”, “technology vs. nature” and “revisiting classics”. Baptista revealed to style.com: “We wanted to bring in a little bit of the excitement of the runway to make sure the clothes didn’t look stiff or dead, because sometimes that’s the danger of fashion in a museum. But if the show touches people and makes them feel something or stimulates them or inspires them, that would be the best compliment.”

The wide variety of featured outfits reflects the multifaceted talent of Baptista, from his animal prints and his reinvention of the little black dress to his tailored jackets for men and his recent military and African inspired collections. There is also an impressive installation of eighty screens that feature Baptista’s sketchbooks, mood boards, collages, drawings and photos from editorials, casting a light on the creative process behind his designs. The installation is entitled “Screen to the brain” and was presented this year at the Hyères International Festival of Fashion and Photography. Felipe Oliveira Baptista shared recently with nowfashion blog his feelings about his retrospective at MUDE: “The concept of the exhibition is that it is a new project on its own. I picked up my selection from the archive, but not only to exhibit it in a classical way, rather to reflect something new…when you look through your own work, you suddenly build up bridges between different collections, you find connection points between different styles you worked on, that you wouldn’t necessarily have noticed before – you captivate the essence of your work. Doing a retrospective was actually like creating a new perspective on my own work.” Felipe Oliveira Baptista’s retrospective in Lisbon is the perfect homage to the creative universe of a designer that knows how to mix perfectly the simple with the modern, the ground breaking with the wearable, and is a definite no miss for all fashion lovers out there.