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  • Erdem fall 2015 collection

  • Erdem fall 2015 collection

  • Erdem fall 2015 collection

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Erdem explores the cinematic side of fashion for fall 2015

In his fall 2015 collection, Erdem Moralioglu explored the idea of creating a fictional heroine, taking as reference the environment that surrounds her in order to design her clothes. The Canadian-born designer was inspired by “The Collector”, an installation by production designer Robin Brown for Helly Nahmad Gallery’s booth during London’s Frieze Masters last year that recreated the 60’s apartment of an imaginary Parisian collector. Erdem commissioned Brown with the creation of a similar set for his latest show, using midcentury furniture, geometric wallpapers, lamps with ceramic bases and vintage magazines and books, many of which belonged to his personal archive. The fashion designer placed his decadent but charming heroines in the middle of this evocative, cinematic set, as if they were a clan of forgotten film stars whose clothes matched their home décor.

“She’s from a good family in the fifties, someone like a young Claudia Cardinale or Romy Schneider, trying to be an artist or a writer, or get married. She’s cut up things from her granny’s wardrobe and stitched them together with upholstery or sofa fabric, taken apart an old ocelot coat and fixed on her own trimmings,” revealed Erdem about his imaginary heroine. The collection included brocade cocktail dresses in metallic hues, bold-colored guipure lace gowns, splendid coats made of vibrant jacquards that were turned inside out, laser-cut leather dresses and Chanel-like tweed suits with frayed hems, many of them worn with tall riding boots that were designed by Nicholas Kirkwood.

A couple of coats in camel and black that faded miraculously into metallic, degrade brocades and were made using a needle-punching technique that merged both fabrics without leaving any marks were absolutely breathtaking. The same technique was employed in a series of austere sweaters that were melded into long silk skirts, with some really amazing results. Edgy and ultra feminine, luxurious but with a decadent feel to it, Erdem’s fall 2015 collection was an impressive exercise in color, fabric manipulation and proportion, setting the standard not only for his future shows, but for London Fashion Week in general.