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  • Raimund Berthold s/s 2016 collection. Photo by Krish Negari.

  • Raimund Berthold s/s 2016 collection. Photo by Krish Negari.

  • Installation by Klara Lidén. Serpentine Gallery, London, 2010. Photo by Gautier de Blonde.


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Raimund Berthold pays tribute to artist Klara Lidén in his s/s 2016 collection

London-based designer Raimund Berthold presented some days ago during London Collections Men his s/s 2016 menswear collection, an exciting follow up to his previous collection that rose eyebrows last season with its inventiveness and originality. This season Berthold went more minimal and low key, leaving behind his usual bold graphics in order to pay homage to Swedish-born artist Klara Lidén, known for her videos and site-specific installations.

In particular, the designer was inspired by Lidén’s “Poster Painting” series, made of layers of advertising posters that the artist collects from city streets and then reworks them, adding a layer of white paint on top and re-locating them in new spaces, generating a whole new experience for the viewer. “Lidén’s four-inch wads of advertisement posters glued together are faceless and bold and reflect my attraction to materiality and humor,” explained the designer in a recent interview with Fashion Monitor.

Lidén’s influence was apparent in Berthold’s architectonic, multilayered designs that were full of textural elements, among the stitched pockets or straitjacket-inspired straps and handcuffs. Berthold played with shape and proportion, combining high-tech materials like nylon with wool and silk organza, in order to create a series of slick, nineties-inspired looks. His clinically cut, almost transparent lightweight jackets, made of rainproof polyamide, were impeccably constructed; his running shorts were rich and polished; while his cropped trousers were elegantly masculine, all fashion-forward and, at the same time, comfortably versatile.

The designer, who explored in this collection the way uniforms, among them 1950s hospital gowns and protective morgue over-garments, are used to conceal and offer shelter, kept the palette simple in white, black, magenta and cyan, letting the cutting edge-design speak for itself. Berthold delivered a dark collection full of light, placing this very contrast in the heart of his captivating outfits with some really amazing results.